ussia’s Federal Supreme Court has ruled in favor of Vacheron Constantin in a trademark lawsuit filed by parent company Compagnie Financière Richemont. Richemont took the Russian retailer Ritter-Gentleman to court for selling mid-market clothing and accessories under the Vacheron Constantin name. In 2005, Ritter-Gentleman had secured the right to use the Vacheron Constantin name for products other than watches from Rospatent, Russia’s trademark office.Earlier this week, the Russian court ordered Rospatent to cancel the trademark registration, saying it was an infringement of the Vacheron Constantin name. “This decision of the court will no doubt also have great persuasive value in other jurisdictions around the world where the courts are grappling with similar issues surrounding the protection of famous foreign marks,” said Frederick Mostert, chief legal counsel at Richemont.

Vacheron Constantin is Switzerland’s oldest existing watch manufacturer, with prices that start at about 15,000 GBP, or $24,000 at current exchange, and stretch into the millions of pounds. Richemont has already won a case against Ritter-Gentleman and Rospatent for registering and using the name of Jaeger-LeCoultre, another of Richemont’s high-end watch brands, although that decision is being appealed.

A source close to Richemont said Jaeger-LeCoultre’s and Vacheron Constantin’s concern is that Russian consumers have a right to be correctly informed as to the origin of the goods they buy. “Otherwise they are misled, the genuine brand becomes devalued in their eyes, and sales of the genuine product suffer reputational damage,” the source said.

Dirty little secret time. This guy (I’m circling my face with my finger) dabbled in the world of John Casablancas (MTM, the non-rip-off part). Before that, I slightly strutted my stuff for a now vanished Traverse City agency known as Resume Modeling. Looking at me now, one would hardly recognize the waif like dude with the big hair that made a few bucks off of the fashion world. That period of time encompassed my 18th to 20th year. And oh the stories I could tell…..

Why share this strange little closet skeleton with you here? Because a major part/fact of that life has come roaring back within recent weeks. And I am of two minds on the topic!

Shall we discuss “thinspiration”?

“Nothing tastes as good as skinny feels.” That’s the infamous quote uttered by a fashion icon and powerhouse that I had the very real pleasure of meeting, however briefly, Kate Moss. She was my hero for many a year. I still, to this day, look at her with a large amount of admiration. But, that message that supposedly launched a million girls into anorexia has created a permanent storm of controversy around her brand, a storm that has been lauded and hated. Is that message, and others like it (like Russian supermodel Natalia Vodianova’s recent exclamation that “It’s better to be skinny than to be fat”), one that should supported or slapped back?

Let me start this by saying that my views here, as always, are my own.

Flimsy argument? Maybe, but it holds merit! There is an attack on obesity coming from some very mainstream, very well supported and loved folks and institutions, without any repercussions from the haters. What’s that you say? These folks are pushing a healthy lifestyle? Well, how does one truly define that?? I think Mr. Rogers even went after obesity/fat. That’s indoctrinating children!! (slight bit of sarcasm there)

How about another angle? Here’s the other hand.

You have a job writing blogs. Your blog sucks. You’re called into your boss’ office and told in no uncertain terms that if you don’t improve the quality of your blogging, you will be fired and your boss will find someone else who can blog up a storm and be everything your company wants them to be.

The same minute  attention to detail and pressure applies to today’s models, industry wide. If you are not living up to the expectations of the Calvin Kleins, Donna Karans and Anna Wintours of the world, you will be discarded and something better will take your place. In their world, an extra slice of pizza could mean no more paychecks. And the higher up you get, the more pressure there is. So, can you really fault them for surviving on jello? No, you can’t. They didn’t sign up to be a role model, they signed up to be a fashion model.

Note to the folks who hate: It says a lot about you, your priorities, your jealousy and your actual intent when all of your energy and money goes into hating and fighting while those that you hate and fight are putting their energy and dollars into helping those you claim to fight for. That, right there? That’s a burn. On you. By me.

Now to the meat of it.

Pinterest got this ball rolling. Seems that there are people out there who consider Isabelle Caro to be an inspirational figure. This, to me, is the epitome of sad. And yet, through Pinterest, these girls and women were able to share their skewed visions of beauty and inspire others who believe that success is only achieved when every rib is protruding and both hips act as hangers for your skirt. Some folks began pinning images of emaciated women, offering these images up as an ideal. Pinterest has since banned this sort of pinning from their site.

Instagram followed suit. The same sort of “thinspiration” was developing on their properties and they have proceeded with efforts to shut it down.

I applaud these efforts, such things are mind blowingly wrong. Aside from the ladies within that group, no one finds that body type attractive. But, these sorts of sites and groups will remain. Whole websites exist just to inspire an anorexic to become more anorexic. You’re not yet skinny enough, they scream. Stop eating jello! The sugar is sooooo fattening! Just survive on saltines and water, you can totally do that! (Gross).

The marketing side of this blog is simple, never before has it been more important for you to be actively involved in your brand’s day to day online presence, including any conversation surrounding your brand within the various social media channels. Brands like Nike and Inside Fitness (and many more) are pinned, shared and otherwise spread around within the “thinspiration” movement. While these shares have nothing to do with an unhealthy body image (indeed, these images are quite attainable and healthy), their placement could cause trouble. This could signal collusion between the brand and the lifestyle. This could be severely damaging to the brand.

This can be avoided.

The best piece of advice that you will ever receive regarding your brand’s presence within social media is to know what that presence is, whether it is purposeful or not.

That being said, this whole topic riles me somewhat. Hate should never be the language to which folks naturally jump. Seek out a solution. Stay positive. Insults, vitriol, hate speech of any kind only worsens things. Individuals are one thing, but a negative brand never succeeds!

“It is the choice of the individual – business and person alike – to make a conscious effort to embrace the positive,” says Oneupweb’s Social Media Client Success Specialist Sarah Peschel. “It’s easy to get online and propel yourself into a deep depression.  Same goes for giddy cheer.  Resolve to be positive and stick with it.”

“P.S.: according to thinspiration on Facebook, I blew my whole caloric intake for the day at lunch.”

Looking at the piles of unworn skirts, tops and trousers, discarded handbags and shoes, she feels exasperated about shopping.

Racing through the questions, the woman reveals she never gets her look right for any event and always feels that her clothes are too dated, or that she’s underdressed, and is envious of women who effortlessly look perfect for every occasion.

But instead of going shopping for an entire new wardrobe, she turns to the professionals. They’re not stylists, but experts who will delve into her wardrobe to examine her well-being. That’s why the questionnaire doesn’t just ask if she prefers jogging bottoms or pretty dresses. It digs deeper, to find out things like how spontaneous she is – does she drop everything to accept a last-minute party invitation? Is she the person people turn to for child-minding in a crisis? Or does she love being alone, enjoying the peace and quiet of libraries?

This is ‘fashion feng shui’, a soul-searching process of image consulting, styling, psychoanalysis and coaching devised by author and award-winning professional image consultant, Evana Maggiore. It’s being used by everyone from businessmen who want more of a social life to housewives who want to revamp their style or get back to work. For years we’ve been told the ancient Chinese practice feng shui will work in our homes and offices – Evana believes it’s time to get that good energy into our wardrobes too.

“It’s like weaving a tapestry of personal style,” says Evana. “Whether you’re in the midst of a major life crisis, or you just cringe at the thought of getting dressed, fashion feng shui can empower you to transform not only your appearance, but also your self-image, finances, relationships, career and health.

“We’re all unique and our clothes need to reflect our minds, our spirits and our goals, not just our hair colour or our waist measurement.”

“One of my seminar clients in Los Angeles was Sarah. When she appeared with smudged, panda-like eyes, I could see she had been crying,” Evana recalls. “After she introduced herself she revealed her husband had left her two days earlier. She sobbed as she told us she used to be fun but had lost her identity and wanted to get back to being herself again.

“Over three days she transformed from a colourless cast-off wife to a radiant, confident women. I took her shopping to Rodeo Drive and she chose a pale rose silk designer suit with matching high-heeled shoes. She had rediscovered the real Sarah at the end and a new life started for her.”

Evana believes the five energies of water, wood, fire, earth and metal, which are important in feng shui, also apply to our minds, our bodies and our intentions. Each element represents a different category: water represents the Philosopher; wood is for the Pioneer; fire stands for the Pleasure Seeker; earth signifies the Peacemaker; and metal represents the Perfectionist. Based on these findings, she developed her Fashion Feng Shui system, and discovered that everyone fitted into one of the different classifications. “It’s common for people to fit into three different categories for their Essence (mind), their Appearance (body) and their Intention (goals). There are five different categories for each and everyone falls into one of them,” says Evana. Which one are you?

2. Decide which materials you prefer. Do you like smooth, luxurious textures such as velvet or fur, or are coarser materials such as tweeds more your style?

3. Look at the patterns you are attracted to. Do you love floral prints, stripes or dots or do you prefer items with no patterns?

4. What style of clothes do you veer towards? Do you like loose-fitting comfortable clothes, or do you prefer snug-fitting items? Is your style different for your tops than it is for your bottoms?

5. If you could change one thing about yourself or your life, what would it be? Is there something you would like more of in your life?

Once you have these answers, you’re already on your way to discovering the clothes that will not only suit you, but will also bring you more of what you want.

ESSENCE – this is your inner being, your inherent, unchanging nature and what makes you essentially you

• THE PHILOSOPHER is spiritual, sensitive and imaginative and loves independence, freedom and being alone. Philosophers become academics, writers and scientists and enjoy reading, meditating, painting and composing.
• THE PIONEER is ambitious, dynamic and health-focused and loves getting things done, especially daily exercise. Pioneers become athletes, sales people and coaches and enjoy debating, travelling and the outdoors.
• THE PLEASURE SEEKER is charismatic and loves being with people and having fun. Pleasure Seekers become actors, agents and DJs and they enjoy performing, entertaining and socialising.
• THE PEACEMAKER is responsible, nurturing and traditional and enjoys helping others and being practical. Peacemakers become nurses, therapists and bankers and they love volunteering, babysitting and gardening.
• THE PERFECTIONIST is organised, refined and elegant and values excellence and beauty. Perfectionists become statesmen, editors and analysts and they are at home directing, organising and dining.

Once you understand who you are, decide which category you fall into for APPEARANCE

• THE PHILOSOPHER has dark hair, skin or eyes and their shoulders are narrower than their hips. They like flowing garments with asymmetrical hemlines, fringes, beads and an unexpected mix of colours.
• THE PIONEER has brown hair or blue/green eyes and a balanced shoulder-to-hip body shape. They like clothes with no, or slight, waist emphasis, elongated garments such as exercise clothes and slim trousers.
• THE PLEASURE SEEKER has reddish hair and ruddy or rosy skin and their upper body is usually larger than their bottom part, making an inverted triangle. They like to wear V-necks, short, slim skirts and narrow-hipped trousers.
• THE PEACEMAKER has golden-blonde or brown hair with brown eyes and they have a short, full torso with an undefined waistline. They wear tailored trousers, elasticated waists and tweeds.
• THE PERFECTIONIST has light hair, eyes and skin and balanced hips and shoulders with a defined waistline. They wear high-quality, perfectly fitting clothes without any patterns and with a cinched waist.

• THE PHILOSOPHER focuses on creative goals such as writing a book or studying for a qualification.
• THE PIONEER has health or exercise targets, such as running a marathon.
• THE PLEASURE SEEKER has social goals, such as attending a major event.
• THE PEACEMAKER has community or family aspirations and they will want to do community work or have their own children.
• THE PERFECTIONIST has cultural goals, which may involve improving their social status.

Evana explains: “Once we know which of the categories we fit into, we can start to buy clothes that suit us and no one else. We dress according to our Essence and Appearance, and add one or two pieces that fit in with our Intention.

“Our clothes can be visual affirmations. Someone who wants more money or refinement in their life will wear Perfectionist items such as a cashmere twinset or a status-symbol gold watch. A Philosopher who wants to get fitter will wear some Pioneer blues and greens and possibly stripes to attract sporty energy.

“A sporty Pioneer who’s always in her jeans may want to settle down and start a family, so she will use one or two Peacemaker items, like a textured shawl or a brown leather handbag, to attract the Peacemaker energy she wants in her life.”

Once we’ve done our homework and some deep soul-searching, we can then dress for personality and purpose. And, according to those who have been through the process, we will always look the part, whatever we’re doing!

I thought a fashion feng shui consultation would be a waste of time. I’m a writer, I love reading and I even meditate, so wasn’t it obvious that I’m a Philosopher? Yet I had a wardrobe full of mistakes in my effort to look trendy and artistic.

I opened my heart to Evana and her team, revealing that I’m organised and orderly, that I love my husband Ian and 11-year-old son Jack, but I’m not an ‘earth mother’. I’m incredibly active – I walk every day and I have run half-marathons, but I’m not competitive with exercise. I’m also an odd mix – I can be incredibly outgoing and sociable, yet introverted and quiet. I love being at home, yet I like to travel, visiting exotic new places and staying in nice hotels.

From the photos I sent, Evana could see that I have straight dark brown hair, pale skin and dark brown eyes, and I’m a pear shape, with a little top, a defined waist and bigger hips.

As far as clothes go, I feel happiest when I’m smart. I’d bought so many clothes that just didn’t suit me – a chunky purple fleece purchased because I liked the colour, but I always felt shapeless wearing it; and a white summer dress with large black spots on, which made me feel mumsy, even though I love black and white. I feel downmarket in flimsy tops and I never wear my sporty gear anywhere other than when running if I can help it.

I also sent photos of the few outfits I’d got right – a navy wrapover dress, and a boxy black-velvet Russian-style jacket.

I said my intention was to have a bit more fun. As a self-employed journalist I work a lot and with the recession hitting my earnings, I’d stopped going out and seeing friends as much as I used to.

Evana’s report was enlightening: my Essence is Perfectionist. Like a pack of cards, everything fell into place. I realised that’s why I have a picture of Audrey Hepburn from the film Breakfast at Tiffany’s, in my office, why I feel best when I’m wearing good-quality clothes, why I love afternoon tea in china cups and why my ideal night out is in a nice restaurant or at the cinema or theatre.

My Appearance is Philosopher and, according to Evana, I should wear black, white, blue, red and purple with fitted tops, safari jackets and more flowing skirts or trousers to suit my Philosopher shape. The Perfectionist in me doesn’t like patterns, yet my little waist should be emphasised. Square or pointed toes in shoes are better than round toes. As a refined character (in Evana’s eyes!) I should wear cashmere, silk, suede, fur or velvet and avoid coarse and dull fabrics. It became obvious that my purple fleece was the right colour but wrong for its fabric and shape. Because of my sporty Pioneer side, I need clothes that allow me to move around easily.

After the consultation I went through my wardrobe and had the confidence to throw things out.

For me there was no more ‘I should be wearing this.’ It meant I could be conservative and enjoy classic clothes.

I stopped trying to be trendy as the clothes just didn’t suit me and there seemed to be a discrepancy between who I was and how I looked and, at time, I felt I was pretending to be someone I’m not.

As for having more fun, I invested in a red wrap-over dress and sling-backs, which always make me feel like the life and soul of the party. Every now and then, even when I’m working, I pop on a red necklace or some bright red lipstick to remind myself there’s fun to be had!

For me, fashion feng shui was about so much more than clothes, but I have to shop much less often now, because everything in my wardrobe is right for me.

Europeans are starting to appear behind the counters of shops in the UAE’s malls as the economic conditions of their countries remain in the doldrums.

Traditionally, these stores have been staffed by Asian shop assistants, from India and the Philippines in particular.

But some in the industry say jobseekers from Western Europe are beginning to turn their gaze towards the Emirates as a better alternative to the job situations at home.

Most of those who have made the move so far have come from Eastern European countries and former Soviet republics.

“People from Poland and Bulgaria are coming, which we never saw before in Dubai,” said Tony Haddad, the manager of the Virgin Megastore at Dubai’s Mercato Mall. “And we are receiving a lot of CVs from Western Europe. Some are from Spain.

“I expect we’ll start hiring them soon. We are organising interviews for them. Some have good backgrounds so we are trying to find something for them, but mostly they are seeking jobs in sales. It would be great. We’d be happy if we hired them.”

Mr Haddad said salaries for sales staff in Dubai were between Dh4,000 and Dh8,000, with most in the range of Dh5,000 to Dh7,000. Some companies offered less but had difficulty attracting candidates.

“Most of the sales force are Asians, mostly from the Philippines and India,” said Mirla El Masri Heisser, the public relations manager for Mercato Mall.

“This has been the trend in Dubai for some time now, not only in Mercato but in most of the retailers in other shopping malls as well. Now we have seen a larger number of Nepalis coming to the country.

“But I think this trend is going to change because of the economic troubles that are happening in the Western European countries like Greece. We will also see a lot of Eastern Europeans coming to Dubai.

“It will definitely change, and I think it’s for the better in Dubai because we get a lot of tourists and we will need this variety in the retailers. You cannot limit it to two nationalities only.

“We get a lot of nationalities from the tourism side and it would be good if we could cater to all these nationalities. Of course we cannot cater to everybody, but having a variety in the stores would help.”

The very few who have taken such jobs until now have not been fleeing recessions at home but are, for example, a British national who has grown up in Dubai, or a German wife here on her husband’s visa.

Not all shops are looking to change the make-up of the sales force, however. Hobbs is a classic example of an upmarket British women’s fashion chain, yet there are no plans to introduce accents from the UK or anywhere else in Europe among staff at its Dubai stores.

“We don’t have applications from the likes of Spain, Portugal and Greece,” said Promod Rodrigues, the operations manager at Hobbs in Dubai.

“Our sales staff are from India and the Philippines and we are happy with the staffing arrangements. The customers are mostly from the UK.”

Idu Jion, the senior marketing manager at the Book World by Kinokuniya shop in Dubai Mall, said the company was planning to recruit in the UK, but for middle managers rather than sales staff.

“We don’t want to recruit sales force from the UK because we can get sales force locally or from our own market,” Mr Jion said.

He said sales staff in Dubai normally worked an eight-hour day and five-day week, although sometimes they had to work extra because of the requirements of the business.

“They have very flexible hours of working,” Mr Jion said.

Ms Heisser added: “In some of the big department stores we have a lot of Russian sales people because they have a lot of Russian customers. It’s the bulk of their sales nowadays so they’re catering to these guys.”

Some retail groups based in the UAE have been running recruitment drives in former Soviet republics such as Moldova.

“In some cases where some retailers are looking to specifically cater to customers who are from other parts of the world, they may look to recruit specific nationalities, especially if their customers don’t speak English as their first language,” said Ashish Panjabi, the chief operating officer of Jacky’s Electronics.

“This is probably why in many fashion boutiques you’ve seen more Eastern European staff who speak Russian, for instance, or Chinese staff working who can converse in Mandarin.”

Mr Panjabi said most of the sales staff at Jacky’s came from India, the Philippines, Sri Lanka and the Middle East and North Africa region because it was easier to recruit in these countries.

“More than us looking at nationalities, it is more a question of which nationalities can afford to work in Dubai, earn a salary and still find they can sustain themselves here as well as their families back home,” he said.

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